Often after giving birth, within three to six months, most mothers find themselves with thinning and shedding hair (a nightmare, especially for those of us on our happy hair journeys). Usually, only about 85-95% of our hair is growing while the remainder stays in a resting stage. The hormone levels during pregnancy makes our growing stage last longer, which makes our tresses thicker and longer.

However, once those levels drop, then so does our hair-boost. It can be uncomfortable, and even frustrating to go through the postpartum shedding stage because we care about our hair and its progress. Sometimes we even wonder if our hair will return to its former glory. So what can we do in the mean time?

1. Maintain or create your hair regimen. Remember to be gentle when shampooing, brushing and combing. Pamper yourself with deep conditions and alternate with a protein treatment once every four to six weeks.
2. Protective style. The less manipulation, the better. Simple buns and ponytails, and even a wash n’ go can help with retaining as much length as possible while going through this stage.
3. Treat your hair inside-out. Nutrition plays a role in your hair health. Remember to keep yourself hydrated, take your prenatals (or multivitamins) and eat protein and nutrient-rich veggies.

Remember, the good news is that your hair will typically return to normal by your baby’s first birthday. Just keep in mind the basics of your personal hair regimen and be patient–and you’ll see your hair thrive again!

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A simple internet search can reveal the different Curl types usually ranging from 1A which is almost bone straight to 4C which is very tightly coiled. For biracial and African Americans our hair tends to fall in the 3A to 4C/4Z.

Below are some examples of Celebrities and their Curl Types

• 3A Jennifer Freeman
• 3B Singer Mya
• 3C Actress Rachel True (From the TV Show Half and Half)
• 4A Singer Solange Knowles
• 4B Singer Esperanza Spalding
• 4C Singer Erykah Badu

Again these are just some examples but there are several different charts

Some people feel like the curl typing system is just another tool used to divide us natural hair folks. They feel it perpetuates the idea of “good hair” or that certain curl types are ‘better’ than others.

Don’t fret, curl typing can also be used in a positive manner. I now use curl typing when I search for YouTube tutorials for natural hairstyles. But before I get into that let me share a bit of my story. I’ve been natural for most of my life up until about the age of 20/21 when I tried my first relaxer. I liked having relaxed hair for about five minutes, just kidding, maybe a week but I missed the versatility of my natural strands. About 6 months after that ONE relaxer I decide to BC and go back natural.  Up until about 3 years ago even though I was natural I usually pressed or flat ironed my hair straight. As I grew to embrace my natural hair more I realized I wanted to stop straightening it so much and embrace my curls, but I didn’t know much about styling. I began searching youtube for styles to try and when I did them my hair didn’t look the same.” These girls in the videos had natural hair and so did I so what was the problem,” I asked my self. Then realized that just because we’re both natural doesn’t mean our styling techniques or styles would be the same. I began looking for women with hair similar to mine, I tried the styles and this time my results were more like theirs.

There is one more benefit of curl typing, products. Companies are starting to target certain products to curl types. Although this sounds like a good idea you will still need to try the product before completely buying into just because it says ‘for type 4a hair’ and you have 4a hair.

Curl typing is only one part of your hair, be sure to consider the fragility of your hair, whether or not it’s virgin, density, etc. Your hair doesn’t define you, but it’s a great accessory. The truth of the matter is that hair is different and the only “good hair” is Healthy hair.

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Your hair care regimen is basically the steps you take when caring for your hair. I’ve them down into things you will do either Daily, Weekly or monthly

• Daily

If you aren’t on a low manipulation routine you probably style your hair every day, this includes combing/brushing, braiding/twisting, moisturizing, and using other styling tools. Some people comb their hair everyday which can cause breakage and prevent length retention, but you have to find out what works for you and your hair.

• Weekly

A vast majority of naturals only wash their hair once a week or even less frequently. Depending on how much product you use and whether you have build up will determine how often you will need to wash your hair. Detangling is also done on a weekly basis some use tool like a comb, others prefer finger detangling, the choice is yours. Deep conditioning is also performed weekly, biweekly, or even Monthly.

• Monthly

Deep Conditioning should definitely be performed monthly if not more frequently. Deep Conditions are used to help Moisturize the hair and strengthen it. Moisturizing DC’s involve using a Conditioner design to restore the moisture balance to the hair. A DC that is for strengthening will definitely have a Protein in it, which will bond to the hair during the DC process. Perform your DC after washing your hair, apply the necessary conditioner, and place a plastic processing cap over your hair. Next, apply heat with either a hooded dryer, Heat Cap, or Steamer (no plastic cap needed for steamers). If you don’t have anything to heat your hair with you can simply wrap a towel on your head on top of you plastic cap and your body heat will do the work.

Final Tip

Develop your own regimen and find out what works for you. Often people ask “what’s your regimen,” which is fine for Tips, but don’t think there is a simple method that will work for everyone. One person may only wash once every 2 weeks while your hair may get flaky after just a week. Pay attention to your hair and take note of what works for you.

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What is your name and where are you from?

Jael Byrd, from Birmingham, Alabama

How long have you been natural?

Five years

What made you decide to go natural?

It was mostly because of my daughter that I began my transition. I watched her hair morph into lifeless strands from relaxers. There were no balding spots or sores – just limp, lifeless hair. I made the decision not to relax her hair and to keep it braided. I now know this was the start of her transition. After a year with braids, she started to wear her natural texture and that is when the teasing began. Kids can be so cruel and the constant teasing from the other kids devastated my daughter. As a parent, one of the hardest responsibilities that come with the job is to see your child hurting. Now comes the time to pick up the pieces. All of the teasing and name-calling was because her hair did not look like their hair – anymore.

I constantly told her that she was smart and beautiful, not just beautiful on the outside, but a beautiful person. I explained, as best I could, that God made us perfect. Our hair is exactly how it is supposed to be. If He wanted us to have straight hair, He would have given it to us. But He didn’t. So be happy with what you have. There I was with long flowing relaxed hair, giving encouragement to my daughter – who was natural with short tightly coiled hair. That did not make me feel good. As a parent, there are two things that I have to remind myself of: children will usually do as you do and hardly ever do what you say. I feel like I should be the best example for my children – if not me, then who? Now, feeling extremely hypocritical, I came to a pivotal point and a decision needed to be made. Either I stay relaxed and relax her hair again or she stays natural and I transition. Now, five years into my natural hair journey, I have no regrets.

What’s your hair type?

For the record, I generally don’t type my hair because I have more than one curl pattern. According to the Andre Walker hair typing system my curl pattern ranges from 3C to 4B in various parts.

What are your favorite/staple products?

I keep my product list simple as well- shampoo (Aubrey Organics: Blue Algae (moisturizing) or Glycerin Protein Balancer (moisture/protein) or Kinky Curly Come Clean (clarifier)), conditioner (Giovanni Smooth as Silk and Kinky Curly Knot Today), hair rinse (Aubrey Organics Green Tea or ACV rinse), moisturizer (almond or avocado oil/water mixture), sealer (shea butter).

What is your regime?

My hair routine is simple: I feel that life is complicated enough, so I pursue the road of simplicity therefore I love protective styles and I wear them the majority of the time. Wearing protective styles allows me to accomplish three things: moisturize my hair daily, no to low manipulation and protection, especially the ends of my hair. I clarify when my hair begins to respond differently or not at all to products. Approximately every 12 weeks I use Aphogee 2-Step Protein Treatment.

On special occasions or when I am getting burned out on protective styles, I will wear my hair out. I keep my product list simple as well- shampoo (Aubrey Organics: Blue Algae (moisturizing) or Glycerin Protein Balancer (moisture/protein) or Kinky Curly Come Clean (clarifier), conditioner (Giovanni Smooth as Silk or Kinky Curly Knot Today), hair rinse (Aubrey Organics Green Tea or ACV rinse), moisturizer (almond or avocado oil/water mixture), sealer (shea butter). Whats your favorite style? My favorite go-to style would have to be an up-do. I have become very fond of twisting and tucking my hair with bobby pins and/or tuck (side) combs.

Do you have to deal with any negativity about being natural?

Fortunately, I have not had any negative experiences or at least I have not had an incident so negative that I could not view it as a positive because in the end. During my journey, I have found that an ounce of confidence can make the biggest difference. So, I have learned to take the compliments and criticism all in stride.

Did you transition or BC?

Before transitioning, I relaxed my hair all four years doing high school. During the summer of my senior year, I just decided to chop it all off. However, after three months of trying to figure out what to do with my hair, I relaxed it again. From that point, I relaxed my hair for the next nine years and began transitioning in January 2007.
I transitioned for 16 months by using a flat iron to smooth out my new growth every 2 months or so. Also, I trimmed/snipped as well. I did not flat iron to make my hair relaxer straight but only to blend my natural hair and relaxed hair better so the hair would not break at the line of demarcation. Around month 10 in my natural hair journey, my new growth was greater than my relaxed hair; I was flat ironing less and less and began trimming more of the relaxed ends. In May 2008 I trimmed for the last time and became 100% natural. Four and a half years later, here I am natural and helping other women discover their natural hair as well.
To you what’s the best part about being natural?

First and foremost, I really enjoying talking with and hearing the about the journey of other women I meet through my natural hair website. I have been able to help women with their natural hair journey as well as create a supportive environment for natural hair women. Second is education. I am a lifelong learner and through my five years of being natural, I have learned so much about natural hair and the science behind it all. What are some of the positive things that people say about your hair or your decision? Your hair is so pretty, I wish my hair could do that. I simply reply, “Thank you. It can, you just have to stop relaxing it.”

I have many people to tell me that my hair fits my personality. I am not quite sure what they are implying but I like I said, I take it all in stride.
What advice would you like to impart to new naturals or transitioners?

Once you decide to go natural, you should consider these eight things:

1. Know exactly why you are going natural and wanting to wear your natural hair.
2. Have a plan that will guide you through your transition or big chop.
3. Set goals to help you stay focused and take action to keep your plan real.
4. Become a life learner of natural hair.
5. Make a commitment to keep an open mind about your natural hair.
6. Create a regimen and make it a priority, make it important.
7. Be patient. I know this is easier said than done but it will help keep anxiety down.
8. Don’t fret, your hair is growing.

These steps are important because they are the building blocks of your mental transition – which is an integral element for a successful transitional journey. Think about these steps and I would love to speak with you more once you have thought about the answers and have taken action.

Also, I have a free eBook: Going Natural: How to Transition from Relaxed Hair to Natural Hair in 7 Simple Steps that should help new naturals with the process of going natural. The introduction starts with renewing your mind about your natural hair. This mental journey is often undervalued and/or overlooked until it is too late.

BHP thoroughly enjoyed the interview with Jael! It would be great if all parents were as sensitive to the  emotional needs of their children and their haircare! It’s amazing how Jael proved to be such an outstanding role model for her daughter and gained a lovely head of natural hair as a plus.

Thanks, Jael, for your insightful interview, and please keep up the great work of being a super parent and natural hair guru!

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• Co-Wash This term is used for women washing their hair only using Conditioner. A lot of Naturals try to only use natural products in their as well steering away from key ingredients, one of those key ingredients is Sodium Laurel Sulfate (SLS) which is found in most Shampoos. Hence the desire to Co-Wash.
• TWA Teeny Weeny Afro, this is the type of hairstyle one uses shortly after having their Big Chop or BC. Most recently actress Viola Davis sported her TWA on the red carpet at the Academy Awards. She received some flack for her style, but I think it was absolutely beautiful.
• Protective Styling is a method of styling your hair in a way that involves minimal manual manipulation. This type of styling often has the ends of the hair tucked away, since the ends are the oldest parts of the strand and require gentle handling. Protective styling is also credited to minimizing breakage and resulting in longer hair.
• Breakage is when hair is breaking at any point in the hair shaft and is not natural. Hair breakage often occurs if your hair has over processed or over manipulated. The over processing can occur with chemical treatment including relaxers and hair dyes. Over manipulation is caused by actually doing too much to the hair, constantly combing, brushing, braiding twisting etc. There is nothing wrong with these styles in moderation, moderation is key.
• Shedding is a natural cycle of the hair. After hair reaches the end of it’s life cycle it falls out from the root. The average amount of hair shedding is 50-100 hairs daily. A good indicator of whether or not a hair is shed is the white bulb on the end.

A lot of Naturals desire to have long hair, long being relative to the individual. One might consider long the length they had before decided to go back natural, others usually want to surpass their previous length. In the Black community ‘long’ is considered shoulder length, but in the bigger picture it’s usually Mid-Back length. Whatever your length goal is below are some acronyms that will help you evaluate where you are and perhaps where you want to be in the next year or so.

Length Acronyms

• EL Ear length
• NL Neck Length
• SL Shoulder Length
• BSL Bra-Strap Length BSB Below Shoulder Blade (these 2 are similar length)
• MBL Mid Back Length
• WL Waist Length
• HL Hip Length

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What is your regime?

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Yes I said BACK Natural, you were born this way, remember

Well there are 2 ways to go back natural, Big Chop or Transition

BC (Big chop)

This is the easiest way to transition if you are comfortable with wearing short hair. Most women are very leery about cutting off all of their hair for numerous reasons. Some women ask themselves, ‘is my head odd shaped,’ ‘will men be attractive to me,’ etc. Other women look at doing a BC as a liberating experience, one that allows a sort of ‘rebirth.’ To address those previous questions, only you know your own head but most likely it’s a normal shape, men have preferences just like us, some like short hair others like long, but all will agree that confidence goes a long way. So if you are considering doing a Big Chop, do it proudly, your face is now the center of the attention so always wear a beautiful smile. Take this opportunity to play with makeup a little, and wear those beautiful earrings that are in your jewelry box.

Transition

Transitioning can be a little more difficult but better for those who don’t want the dramatics of a BC.

Transitioning involves 2 basic steps

• Stop getting relaxers and your hair will begin to get more wavy at the root (what you call new growth) Your hair is no longer being manipulated by the chemical process of relaxing. However the hair that is already relaxed will remain straight.
• As your hair grows begin cutting off your relaxed ends. If you want to maintain your current length and your hair grows at the average rate of 1/2 an inch per month, trim off 1/2 inch per month. If you don’t mind short hair you can trim off more, it’s up to you.

Here are some things to be aware of if you decide to Transition

During a transition many people experience breakage. The reason for this breakage can be a number of things, applying too much heat, doing a lot of manual manipulation to your hair, not conditioning your hair as much as needed, etc. Near the line where the natural curl pattern ends and the relaxed hair starts is where most people see the breakage occurring. Some combat this with protein treatments but you really have to try it for your self to find out if it will help you.

While transitioning a more popular Hairstyle choice is wearing braids Micro braids or Box braids. The reason for this is because the hair is braided you don’t have to deal with the 2 different textures the relaxed and the natural hair.

Here are some more important things to remember as you begin your journey back to Natural Hair

• No two curl patterns are the same. Don’t expect your hair to look exactly like someone else’s. It’s easy to say ‘I like Jasmine’s hair, I want mine like that’ but when it doesn’t turn out like hers we get ‘curl envy.’ Remember that you are uniquely beautiful and so is your hair, embrace it.

• You don’t know how well a product will work for you until you try it. I personally have tried products that my friends hated, but it worked wonders for me. Just like no 2 curls are exactly alike, different hair doesn’t react the same to the same products.

• Be patient with your hair, if all else fails you can put a relaxer in if you chose to, but the transition back to natural is a tedious process but well worth it. Remember AVERAGE hair growth rate is 1/2 an inch per month, but yours may grow quicker or slower.

My Hair Story

I was natural up until about the age of 20. I allowed a friend/co-worker to put a Just for me relaxer in my head. I thought it was cute for about 5 minutes, but I quickly missed the versatility of my curly hair. So I transitioned for about 6 months, during that time I experienced breakage, I was also pressing my hair as well. When you press/flatiron hair that has already been relaxed, it’s called ‘double processing’ which is probably why I had so much breakage. After those 6 months I went to the beauty salon and instructed the stylist to cut off all the relaxed hair, which left me with a little under 3 inches. I cried as I sat in the chair and watched my hair fall to the floor, but I knew it was for a good reason. I never had my hair that short in all my adult life, so I was one of those women questioning myself about my head shape/size and whether I would be able to get a date afterwards. Shortly thereafter, I began loving the ease of my new short hair and the journey began to grow it long again.

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I always thought that going natural would be a fascinating and exhilarating experience. I imagined myself pleasantly skimming through the experience gracefully sporting buns and twist-outs. I figured with my gorgeous relaxed locks, this thing couldn’t be as difficult as they say. Reminiscing about my wavy coils pre-relaxer days, I was certain that this transition would fit me perfectly.
Who would’ve thought that I would be fighting with single strand knots, impossibly tangled hair, ridiculous efforts to style my awkward strands, and the continual battle of the two textures? I hardly imagined the snide remarks I’d get from friends and family that aren’t quite grasping this decision to go without chemicals, or the annoying questions about why I am making such an “unnecessarily stressful choice”. and as one of my dear friends would say, why am I going back to Africa?
My life has gone from a two to three hour visit to the salon weekly to a five hour show down with my coils every weekend. I can no longer wash my hair, jump out of the shower, rollerset, and sit under the dryer, I must now dedicate a huge block of day to my tresses, as I toil over the new mane that I possess.
I won’t even begin to discuss the many critical critiques from the camp that disagree with my choice to wear a sew- in as I transition, or to not BC when they deem it necessary.
Believe it or not, I don’t regret my decision to transition; neither do I wish to turn back the hands of time. I do however wonder if an early BC is the answer to my dilemma, my goal was a one year transition, and as I near the year end mark, I find myself questioning that too. I keep hearing that once you BC, many of the woes that you face become a thing of the past, and although you embrace the new trials of being newly natural, the tradeoff is well worth it.
I have to end my little rant by saying, if you are considering transitioning or are dealing with my very same struggles, go watch yourself some YouTube videos for inspiration, and keep hope alive. Don’t give in to the calling of the creamy crack, keep your focus to the fully natural you and take it one day at a time.

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Over the past several months, my protective style of choice has been the ever so popular sew in. Of course, as a fairly new transitioner (11 months post relaxer), I am always looking for ways to stay well groomed while growing out my locks. Also, considering that I am not willing to embrace a TWA anytime soon, I need some hair on my head!  Well, once I discovered the convenience and ease of a sew-in, that was all she wrote. I only started wearing about weaves eight months ago (off and on). That was after I chose to chop off quite a bit (not all) of my relaxed hair.

I was once the girl that you may have heard questioning, “Why would anyone put that fake hair in their head”? Or you may have heard me making the statement, “I would never wear someone else’s hair, I’m a natural beauty” Never say never.  In retrospect, I have to chuckle at myself, because when it all boils down, wearing weaves is just another hairstyle choice.  I digress; my point is now that I wear weaves, I now find myself struggling with the thought of not wearing them.  Having to tackle the two textures once I do finally let go of my sew- ins, to ultimately embrace fully my natural texture, frightens me a bit.

I do look forward to running my hands through my natural locks, experimenting with the various hairstyles that only naturals can enjoy, and showing off my very own God given texture. However, I will not lie, I will also miss the convenience of a wearing a weave, the instant glam, and for lack of a better phrase, the ability to be kind of lazy.

I often wonder why some ladies choose to go natural only to wear sew ins indefinitely. I cannot imagine, once I am fully natural with my desired length, wanting to revert back to my sew ins, but to each his own.  My choice of going with a weave as a transitioning style has gotten me through some days that I know would’ve been hellatious for me otherwise. I am just hoping that the use of sew ins as a protective and transitioning style has not ruined me for good.

So, now I beg the question how do I avoid being completely ruined by the sew-in? One sure fire way is to consider how the long term usage of sew-ins can eventually lead to possible damage, broken edges, and reversal of my hard work to even go natural. What’s the use of going natural if I am just going to slap in a weave and call it a day? I refuse to do that. And ladies, I suggest if you are considering weaves as a protective hairstyle or as a transitioning style, you don’t fall prey to being ruined by it, and keep your eyes on the prize.

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