Perming of African American Hair
How to Perm African American Hair
Perming curly hair has been practiced by American African women of different ages for so many years. However, perming and hair relaxing products can be very damaging so before you start the perming process yourself, here are some tips worth remembering.
For the first timers- seek professional help
Although it may seem that it is quite expensive to go to a professional hairstylist to have your hair straightened or relaxed, you will surely be getting the best value for your money in the end. A professional would know exactly what chemicals to use for your particular hair type. If you do it yourself, there is a very big risk that you will do more damage than good. In the end, you will be spending more on salvaging products than anything else.
Do-it-yourself home kits
If you are confident that you can do it on your own, then by all means, go ahead. Make sure that you do your research. Check out some hair care forums and ask around to see what works best for people with your hair type. Women are always willing to share helpful hair tips. Beware of cheapie relaxers that claim to have professional ingredients. I would suggest purchasing your relaxer from a certified salon with professional products. Many times this will require a cosmetologist license. They do sell the products in some beauty supply stores, but they are more expensive there. It is also advisable to seek the assistance of a friend, as it is quite difficult to reach the back part of the head on your own.
The hair straightening/relaxing process
Before you start, read the instructions on the label carefully and do as told. Do a strand test on a small portion of your hair to check for negative reactions. If everything goes well, then start the application process. Divide your hair into 4 partitions. Split it vertically in the middle from top to bottom, then horizontally from ear to ear. Dab some petroleum jelly on your forehead and ears; apply the treatment evenly on all hair partitions with a fine toothed comb or the application brush provided in your kit. Do this until your whole head area is covered. The time it will take to complete the process will depend on your hair texture. Surely, your home kit will provide this information. Wash and shampoo your hair thoroughly after. I suggest washing at least three times with the neutralizing shampoo. Conditioners are often included in the home kit. Use as instructed.
The results
After you have towel blotted your hair dry, style your hair as usual. You will immediately see the dramatic change of your now flowing hair. Straightening and relaxing hair (the right way), will surely make your hair look healthier, smoother, and more lustrous.
Follow up
To get maximum results, try to do deep conditioning at least once a week. Perm hair tends to get dryer faster. Try to stay away from moisture right after getting a perm as this will make the roots look frizzy. Permed hair is more fragile than ever, so handle your hair more gently this time and use hair care products that are particularly made for permed hair. Do not attempt to perm your hair more than necessary. Maintain a protein moisture balance to keep your hair strong. Only apply the treatment to hair new growth, and not to the whole area. Suggested time to reapply to new growth is eight to ten weeks.
The 12 Must- Have Products and Tools for Relaxed Hair
The 12 Must- Have Products and Tools for Relaxed Hair
If you are a newbie to your hair care journey, you may wonder whether or not you have in your possession the necessities for a healthy hair care experience. In any hair care journey, whether natural or relaxed, of course, there are items needed to guarantee success. You need to keep the following items on hand at all times if you care for your own hair, and do not visit a hair care professional regularly. The list provided is what has ensured me a successful relaxed hair care journey!
- A wide tooth comb-it detangles your hair without pulling it out in the process.
- A good deep conditioner (moisturizing)-Use this weekly.
- A protein conditioner (for use as needed) I only use once a month or if my hair needs emergency treatment.
- A moisturizing shampoo-If you are a co-washer, then you may be able to leave this item off.
- A clarifying shampoo- this is especially needed to remove product buildup. I only use it twice a month, as it strips the hair of its natural oils.
- Leave in conditioner-You can apply most leave ins on a daily basis for stronger hair that is more resistant to environmental damage as well as protecting your hair from heat.
- A hooded dryer or a hair steamer-you need to have these tools for deep conditioning. Hooded dryers are indirect heat which is less damaging than direct heat for styling, and can be used for achieving styles such as roller sets and wraps.
- A good moisturizer-Your hair needs to be moisturized anywhere from daily to every other day, as needed.
- Oils for sealing in moisture-Natural oils are best; i.e. Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Coconut oil, Jojoba oils, etc.
- A quality pair of shears for trimming ends. Regular scissors are not designed for trimming hair and will damage your ends.
- Plastic caps to be used for deep conditioning.
- Satin bonnet or scarf for sleeping at night-This is how you will keep your hair on your head, and not on the pillow!
I hope that this list has been of some assistance in establishing a hair care routine and acquiring the necessities for doing so. Happy hair growing!
Treating Relaxer Burns
For me, there is nothing like the feel of a fresh relaxer. I love the way my hair falls and moves. How the breeze lifts the strands and tickles my scalp. Mostly I love how I can loosen up my regime for a few days and just wrap and forget my hair. It’s no fuss styling for slugs like me. At the end of the long road called stretching, I see my relaxer as a reward for weeks of effort. One of my recent relaxers though, was more torture than treat.
That day everything that could’ve gone wrong, did. The first error was that the stylist only based the front half of my head, and I didn’t even notice. As the chemical began to do its thing, I could feel a tell tale tingle near my nape and was surprised because I’m usually sitting at the sink when that happens. I said nothing until the smoothing process began, and the tiny tingle became something more persistent. That was the second mistake; remaining silent instead of speaking up right away. The stylist liberally sprayed some oil sheen on my nape which did help to cool the area down, but the feeling lasted mere moments. That was mistake number three; the cream should’ve been wiped away from my scalp since that was what was causing the pain. I had to insist on being rinsed with only minutes to go, even though the stylist wanted me to wait. My scalp was on FIRE and the pain was something out of this world. Now that’s saying something considering I’ve given birth naturally twice; without drugs! When the cool water finally ran over my head I almost wept in relief. Who knows what would’ve happened had I held out for a few minutes longer. As it was, burns littered my scalp like land mines, exploding with pain every time my hair moved. And the breeze that once tickled my scalp now felt like a poking finger on my burns.
I hadn’t had a burn in years, and nothing of that magnitude. Some of the other clients offered their burn treatment tips like hairspray, hair grease, and hair gel. I wanted to treat my burns safely without further damage to my scalp or hair, and found these suggestions to be uniformed wives tales that wouldn’t offer me relief. Gel and hairspray have alcohol in them and other drying agents that can irritate wounds, creating greater pain. Why would you want to further inflame your already hurting skin? And hair grease or other petroleum based products seal in the heat from a burn, which can create damage under the scalp. This is how people wind up with bald patches, because they have damaged the tissue from where the hair grows. In my cupboard at home I found the only two things I would use to heal me: Aloe vera gel and vitamin E oil. The aloe was to soothe the superficial burns along my hair line and prevent my skin from hyperpigmenting. The Vitamin E oil I used twice a day on my scalp burns, rubbing it in to soften scabs and to help speed healing of the broken skin. The scabs itched like crazy, but I had to resist picking at them. Opening the wounds would’ve created a breeding ground for bacteria and infection. Within a few days the aloe cleared up the minor burns, leaving no marks. After a week of using Vitamin E my scalp was without any tenderness or redness, and there were only two spots that still had scabs, both of which fell off on the tenth day while brushing my hair.
Let’s face it, I was lucky because it could’ve been worse. And unfortunately for many others it has been worse. But burns can be treated safely to prevent further damage and help you enjoy your hair again.
What Not to Do While Stretching Relaxers
What Not to Do While Stretching Relaxers
The art of stretching relaxers is something that takes some time and effort. Basically, if not done correctly, stretching your relaxers can have adverse reactions and cause breakage. If you hair is breaking due to stretching, then of course you are defeating its purpose. The real purpose of stretching is to bring life to your relaxed hair by allowing it time to recover from chemicals in longer stretches of time. Many women report thicker tresses as a result of stretching, as I have. When I first began in my endeavor to stretch, I discovered after much frustration, that my hair was somewhat over processed as a result of getting relaxers too frequently.I discovered this after realizing just how much healthier and thicker my hair was after getting fewer relaxers. My stretching journey started off atrociously, as I had not developed a proper system to realize success in my goals.
So I compiled a list of what things to avoid when stretching your relaxers.
Stay away from drying products. When I am stretching, I notice a significant amount of dryness. So I have learned that products that contain lots of alcohol are to be avoided! Alcohol is your hair’s enemy, so it is not wise to use alcohol based products even when stretching is not the case. Use products that are water based, which will keep your hair moisturized while you are stretching. Be sure to seal with an oil to lock the moisture in.
Do not handle your hair a lot during stretching. Manipulating can bring about breakage. Protective styles are ideal for stretching. The less you manipulate/handle your hair the better off you hair will be. Brushing often should be avoided. If you are using ponytails as a protective styles avoid tight pulling and hard brush srokes.
Do not neglect your scalp. Use moisturizing oils to keep your scalp oiled. Again, dryness is what you are aiming to avoid. Coconut oil is a great oil for your scalp as it actually works to condition the scalp. It also softens the hair, so don’t be afraid to use it on those dry roots. Coconut oil has been very beneficial to me during my stretches.
Do not skip deep conditioning treatments. Deep conditioning is what is going to keep your hair strong from the natural roots to the relaxed ends. Sit under the dryer with your conditioner to get it’s full effects. Make sure you include this step in your stretching regimen as it can be that determining factor in the success of your stretch.
Avoid keeping your hair in a matted state. For example if you are bunning, then you want to make sure that your hair is well detangled underneath. To leave your hair in a bun for several days and not care for those roots is a big hair blunder. Wear your bun or ponytail in the day time and be sure to moisturize and seal at night and start fresh each day.
Do not overdo it with the protein. Protein can cause breakage in excess on the hair. It is important to carefully follow directions on the label of protein based conditioners.
Don’t stretch beyond your hair’s limits. When breakage occurs, assess your routine, and if you’ve done it all correctly, then it may be time to relax. Stretch a little at a time, and increase your intervals from relaxer to relaxer gradually. For example, your first stretch may be for 10 weeks, the next one may increase to 12 weeks, and so on.
Avoid bone straight relaxing. When I relax after an extensive stretch, I actually have better results when I texlax. When you texlax you are just loosening up the curl pattern, not allowing that chemical to sit on your hair for a long period of time. Getting the hair bone straight is never a good practice and results in limp and lifeless hair.
Your strectch will only be as successful as the time and the time and effort that you put into it. Try to be patient with the proceess in order to enjoy a healthier head of hair.
Optimal Care for Relaxed Hair
Optimal Care for Relaxed Hair
It is somewhat disheartening to hear the stories of women with relaxed hair and the many issues they face. Some women find it difficult to maintain the upkeep of a relaxer. Some are experiencing damage due to over processing or improper care of their relaxed hair. Others desire the use of fewer chemicals on their tresses. And you have several women who are simply afraid of their relaxed hair, due to the fear of breakage or further damage when handling it. The good news is that there is hope for relaxed heads to achieve a healthy state of hair if the proper steps and care are taken.
I will begin with some of the proper ways to care for hair that is in a rather healthy state. These tips will not necessarily work for an already damage head of hair. I am assuming that the relaxer has been properly applied.
The first thing to remember for chemically treated hair is that moisture and protein balance can be the determining factor in whether you hair is healthy or not. The chemicals in relaxers, whether you use a lye or no lye relaxer, causes a drying process to occur, therefore you have to replenish moisture on a regular basis. However if your hair is lacking protein, then that can also cause breakage, so it is critical to maintain a proper protein and moisture balance for your relaxed hair to thrive. There is a quick way to assess whether protein or moisture is needed in your relaxed hair by doing a strand test. When the hair is wet, you can tell by the stretchiness or flexibility of the strands. If your hair is very soft like a baby’s then your hair is in need of a protein treatment. If the hair does not stretch at all, then you need to replenish moisture in your hair. The key here is there is a healthy balance that must exist in order for you to resist breakage.
Keeping your scalp clean and conditioned is critical. As with any head of healthy hair, it begins with a healthy scalp. Shampooing should take place at least once weekly and should be immediately followed up with a deep conditioner. When deep conditioning, you are allowing the conditioner to sit and penetrate your scalp and ends. Follow the instructions on the product that you are utilizing carefully for optimal results. Your deep conditioning needs are based upon your assessment of your hair and the strand tests.
Cowashing is a technique used by many women that struggle with a lack of moisture. This term refers to the process of washing the hair with conditioner only in order to replenish moisture, as shampoos tend to strip hairs of their natural moisture.
Stretching your relaxers is a term used to describe going beyond the normal recommended time of getting a new relaxer. The normal recommended time by most hair care professionals is four to six weeks. However, when you stretch your relaxers beyond the suggested time, you are giving your hair a break from chemicals. It also ensures that you don’t overlap the chemical, which causes severe damage and breakage. Many women report thicker tresses and less breakage. But it is important to listen to your hair when stretching. If breakage occurs while stretching, it is more than likely time to relax. Your hair type will determine how long you can stretch.
It is very essential to invest in quality products for your relaxed hair. Do your research. Hair care forums are a great place to start to ask questions and get reliable reviews on products. Experimentation is necessary. If you notice pleasing results with a line of products, or a product alone, it is suggested that you stick with it. Check out ingredients and avoid alcohol as a first ingredient. Alcohol is drying. Although alcohol is found in many commercial products, the further down on the ingredient list it is, the less the product has in it. More than likely it is necessary to invest more money into a quality product in order for you to enjoy superior results.
Finally, treat your relaxed hair with care. Remember that relaxed hair is not in its natural state, therefore it is more fragile. Pamper your tresses. Use a wide tooth comb to detangle hair as opposed to a fine tooth comb. Avoid frequent manipulation by keeping your hands out of your hair. Protective styling can keep your hair from breaking. Wear styles that will keep your hair off of your shoulders. Friction from your clothes can only lead to breakage. And finally, keep you hair from stresses such as low quality products and over processing.
Who said that relaxed ladies could not enjoy healthy hair? It is all about giving your hair that extra care and attention that it deserves.
How to stretch relaxers successfully
How to Stretch Relaxers Successfully
The price that women must pay for beauty sometimes is enormous. Yet, women cannot fight the urges to perm, die, and fry at every chance they can get. As knowledge is increased, ladies who often relax their hair have come to realize that less is more. The less you relax your hair, the healthier your hair can be. The stretching of relaxers has many benefits and has been found to help women to realize healthier and thicker locks. To stretch a relaxer means to go beyond the time that is considered to be normal, which is usually anywhere from 4-8 weeks. So your stretch may begin at about the 8th week post relaxer. One of the benefits of stretching is to avoid overlapping, applying new relaxer on already relaxed hair. This process can very easily take place, if you are not careful when applying the chemical. If you practice stretching, most likely overlapping will not be much of an issue, because there is so much more new growth to cover, and the line of demarcation, (where the relaxed hair and natural hair meet) is very clear. But the dilemma of not being able to manage tangles or new growth exists. There is also the issue of finding the right styles during stretching. These practical tips should be of some help in maintaining healthy hair while stretching, and give tips on how to get through the stretching process.
The first thing to remember when stretching relaxers is to keep your hair moisturized. Moisture plays a big role in stretching as the new growth tends to get dry and sometimes brittle. Many people find natural oils to work best. Particularly, coconut oils contain properties that soften the new growth, hence making it more manageable. Mainly coconut oil has softening and moisturizing properties that allow your new growth to appear more like the relaxed hair. It also promotes healthy hair in general. Purchase coconut oil in its purest form-100 %. Massage some into the scalp and also apply it directly to the new growth to make it more manageable. You may also use other moisturizers to achieve more manageable hair, and follow up with an oil to seal. This will ensure moisture and help keep hair looking and feeling its best while stretching.
Co washing is another tactic many women use to stretch relaxers successfully. When you cowash, washing with conditioner only, you are keeping moisture locked in your hair, and avoiding stripping your hair of its oils during the shampooing process. Co washing is said to soften the new growth and help to keep it more manageable.
Use a wide tooth comb to detangle, as well as a good detangling shampoo. Be careful not to manipulate your hair too much while stretching, as this can cause breakage as well, especially in the roots. Use a leave in conditioner to keep the hair constantly nourished.
Protective styles are suggested when stretching. Buns, ponytails, braids, and roller sets are some suggestions. Be careful not to get braids too tight, as that can only add tension leading to breakage. Some women opt to “hide” their hair under a wig or a weave. Just keep the hair well moisturized and deep conditioned underneath.
Deep condition your hair to keep it strong and healthy. Many women experience breakage during stretching attempts. Why? Because they don’t care for the more fragile hair, (relaxed hair) and it tends to break at that demarcation line. They treat it as if they are natural and not relaxed, when in reality they are at a higher risk of breakage, because the strong hair is putting strain on the relaxed ends. Basically, the deep conditioning process helps the entire head of hair to remain strong and revitalized. A good protein based deep conditioner should be done about once monthly to increase strength. Be careful not to overdo it with the protein, as protein, in excessive amounts, can cause severe breakage.
Realize your breaking point and listen to your hair. If your hair starts to break or shed excessively and you have applied all of the proper care procedures, it may be time to stop stretching and relax. You may want to ease into stretching. Try increasing the stretch by a week or two each time, and eventual ly, your hair should be somewhat trained to be stretched. Know your limits. Journaling and recording your stretching results can be of great benefit to you. Figure out which products are best for you and make a note of them in your hair journal. Take pictures of your hair to add to your journaling.
Stretching is a great way to realize healthy and thicker hair. The essential thing here is to realize that your hair has its limits and you must know them. You can only enjoy the benefits of stretching when your hair is properly cared for. Happy hair growing!
