Black Hair Magazine for Natural and Relaxed African American Hair - blog. » Hair Health

Back to the BASICS – Natural Hair Regimen

Amina — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 12:35:53 +0000

So I have been natural since the summer/fall of 2009 and over the time that has elapsed, I have tried many different methods, products, regimens, etc. A couple of times throughout my journey, I got off track. My hair was not as much of a priority as life’s daily activities were. I was neglecting my hair a bit, but upon reflection I have come to realize that my most basic and repetitive routines/regimens are the most beneficial to my hair. Hence, it is time to get Back to the Basics! Through it all I have found that having a basic routine overall is better for my hair than anything else.

I look at what I did when my hair was/is flourishing the most: gentle handling, weekly co-washes, weekly deep conditions, 4x weekly – daily oiling (EVCO, EVOO, or Castor oil), and stretching my hair prior to styling in order to minimize knots and tangles.

The type of regimen that I described above is the type of Basic Routine that I have often moved away from, but have always found success when I went back to it. Can you recall the routine that you had with your hair that was most beneficial? Have you decided to go back to it? If not, maybe you should!

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How Our Diets Affect Our Hair

Alesha — Sat, 19 Feb 2011 19:23:00 +0000

Raise your hand if you’re struggling to keep your New Year’s resolution to eat healthier or diet. Don’t worry—you’re not alone!

As you waver between steaming those veggies and grabbing a handful of fries, you not only have your body to think about—also consider that what you eat affects your hair. When you take in food, you take in the nutrients it has to offer. These nutrients are delivered to your hair, skin, and nails. Eating junk food isn’t going to provide important nutrients that hair thrives off of; therefore, hair can become dry or prone to breakage. Remember that healthy hair care isn’t just about the “Holy Grail” of conditioners, but it’s also about what you put into your body.

So what can you do to internally promote hair health? First off, remember to drink water and remain hydrated. Dehydration often displays itself with dry skin and brittle hair. Next, eat foods rich in iron and protein. Examples are salmon, dark green vegetables, and beans. Iron and protein are extremely important for stronger and longer hair. Your tresses are already made of keratin infused protein, and iron helps deliver oxygen throughout your body. It’s no wonder that people who eat plenty of food with these key ingredients tend to have a healthy mane.

Of course you don’t have to become a health fanatic in order to have shiny and strong hair, but it will help to incorporate more protein and iron-rich meals into your daily diet. Seek the advice of your physician if you plan to take supplements, and especially if you notice excessive shedding or hair loss.

Here’s to healthy hair growing!

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Is There A Cure For Thin Ends?

Alesha — Wed, 29 Dec 2010 22:25:18 +0000

To cut or not to cut—that is the question. If you take pride in caring for your hair, especially ensuring its growth, it can definitely discourage you to see dry and damaged ends. When confronted with this problem, what is the best solution? Are there really cure-alls such as split end menders, or special oils or conditioners that will repair hair? To understand whether or not we can treat thin and damaged ends, let’s first take a look at why we get them to begin with.

Excessive Heat

One of the most common culprits is over-use of heat tools on our hair. Did you know that your strands can instantly heat up to 80 degrees when using a blow dryer? When you throw in a flat iron or hot press, this spells dryness and damage for your ends especially. Your hair produces sebum (a natural oily substance), which is supposed to prevent it from drying out, but those of us with curlier and kinkier hair patterns tend to not have our sebum reach the ends of our hair.

Chemicals

Whether it’s application of a relaxer or hair dye, any chemical process applied to the hair can cause damage as the structure of the hair is being altered. Usually in these types of chemical applications, the hair’s natural protein bonds are being weakened, broken, or re-arranged. This can definitely wreak havoc on your tresses if this is done too often or incorrectly.

Rough Handling

Also known as over-manipulation, sometimes we take for granted that hair can be fragile (especially when wet). When we grab, brush, comb or braid our hair without being careful, it can backfire on us and cause breakage and split ends—which equals thin or “see through” ends.

So What’s the Solution?

The first step would be to eliminate (or limit) the causes above which lead to dry and damaged ends. Although it helps to do deep conditioning treatments, hot oil applications, etc., these won’t guarantee that your ends will bounce back from the beating they’ve taken. Everyone’s hair journey and hair health is unique, so this is only one perspective and should be treated as such, but if your ends are beyond repair—don’t be afraid to consider a trim or cut. Not only will your ends be noticeably thicker, they will also be free of splits and even some previous heat damage.

In the end, make sure to research all of your options and go with the one that best suits you. It’s your hair, and you’re the one who has to wear it and live with it.

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Budget-Friendly Hair Care

Alesha — Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:11:55 +0000

We all love to pamper ourselves every now and then with luxurious shampoos and conditioners, but sometimes high-end products don’t fit with our budget. So how can you get a salon treatment without breaking the bank?

Go to your nearest grocery store or farmer’s market and…go natural!

Some of the best hair care products currently on the market have incorporated the benefits of natural ingredients and you can often get these in their raw natural form. For example, shea butter is a natural fat from the nuts of the African shea-karite tree and is well known as an effective moisturizer. Shea butter quenches thirsty hair (and skin!), relieves dry scalp, and can even be mixed in with your crème hair conditioner to increase softness and elasticity.

If you like hot oil treatments then a few tablespoons of olive oil or coconut oil will do the job. Both of these oils are rich in fatty acids and have intense moisturizing properties. In addition, coconut oil has been scientifically proven to reduce shedding and hair loss from daily grooming when used on a consistent basis.

If your hair is feeling weak and you need protein, then try coconut milk (usually found in the Asian food section of your local grocery store). You can use it alone or add it to any conditioner and apply to your hair as a treatment. This will benefit your tresses by strengthening strands while at the same time leaving them shiny and soft to the touch.

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) makes a great hair and scalp cleanser as it removes the buildup accumulated from using chemical products. Just mix one part ACV with three-fourths part water and apply to hair like a rinse. It will restore the pH balance of your hair and will also close cuticle scales and leave your hair feeling smooth.

With all of these benefits present in natural and everyday items, you may want to try them even when you’re not restricted by a budget. Great hair doesn’t always have to cost as much as a new purse, and why should it? Just grab your ACV and your olive oil, and create your own salon experience at home.

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Homemade Deep Conditioner for Black Hair-Part 1

Dena — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 01:33:10 +0000

When it comes to deep conditioners, we all pretty much want the same things from them; healthier hair! There are several great deep conditioners already on the market that guarantee great results, so why put yourself through the unnecessary trouble? Well for one, homemade conditioners are lacking something that most of the manufactured ones aren’t such as silicones, mineral oil, parabens, and fragrances; all of which can be very damaging to your hair! Let’s face it, natural is better. Remember, deep conditioners sit on the hair in order to penetrate to the roots, you want natural and wholesome to do this job! Here a few simple ones to get you started that work great for ethnic hair.

Jojoba Oil and Beer Deep Conditioner: One teaspoon of jojoba oil and one cup of warm beer. Mix well and massage into scalp for optimal results.

Coconut Oil and Avocado Conditioner: Blend a mashed avocado with coconut milk. Let it sit on hair for one hour. Wash.

Honey Olive Oil Conditioner: Take 1/2 Cup honey and add to 1/4 cup of olive oil. Mix well and let sit on hair for one hour before rinsing.

Egg and Olive Oil Conditioner: Take one whole egg, ¼ cup olive oil and ¼ cup of mayonnaise. Mix all the ingredients well. Massage gently into scalp.

These homemade conditioners work well for treating damaged, color treated, or over-processed hair. What’s even better is that they are inexpensive to make and you probably have these ingredients right in your refrigerator or pantry.
Good luck becoming more wholesome! Stay tuned for Homemade Deep Conditioners for Black Hair-Part 2!

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Ceramides: Are they truly necessary?

evanny — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 16:19:23 +0000

Ceramides are an essential part of hair care. They are a family of lipid molecules that are found in the fiber of your hair and in your skin. They bind cuticle cells to cortical cells and keep our hair strands together. A lot of people focus on maintaining their moisture and protein balance, but what you also need to be aware of is the ceramide content in your tresses.

Ceramides perform a barrier type of function in the hair, helping to maintain the hair’s protein and moisture levels, and they help to reduce the hair’s porosity. A lack of ceramide content in the hair most often results in dry, brittle, porous hair. Ceramides have been said to “act like protein” by keeping the hair strong, but they also add moisture and shine to the hair. Some people even think that when using a ceramide containing product, it isn’t necessary to use protein. This is not accurate. Protein is an essential part in the make-up of hair so eliminating it totally wouldn’t be the best idea. The reason why ceramides work so well at strengthening the hair, is because they limit the loss of protein by filling in areas where it’s needed, but it is in no way a protein replacement. Protein strengthens the hair, but ceramides are almost like “glue”. They hold the hair strand together so that the protein content is not so easily lost, which in turn will allow you to need use protein less frequently. They also do the same for moisture in the hair. Our hair makes it’s own ceramides, but with frequent damaging hair practices like blow-drying, the content is lost.

Using products that contain synthetic cermides help to keep the hair healthy. They fill in gaps in the hair shaft, much like own hair’s own naturally produced ceramides. Ceramides are mainly used to keep the hair healthy, not really to repair hair that’s already damaged. Maintaining your protein and moisture balance while keeping up with your ceramide content on the other hand, will. Products lines like Nexxus, Redken, Mizani, and oils like Wheat Germ oil can help to build ceramide content that’s lost. Ceramides can cause build up on the hair, so it may be necessary to clarify after some usage. Try them out for yourself and see the difference in your hair.

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How to Make a Comeback From a Setback

Alesha — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 18:19:53 +0000

Raise your hand if (like me) you’ve ever had a dreaded setback. Whether it’s due to a bad dye job, too much heat, or over-manipulation, a setback can take inches off your hair—not too mention that it can also leave your hair damaged and uneven. There are plenty of resources out there telling us how to avoid setbacks, but what if you’re already there and need to get back on track?

Step 1—Determine the Cause of your Setback

If I’m flat ironing my hair and all of a sudden a smoking wisp of hair falls to the floor, I know what I’m dealing with. However, not all setbacks have obvious culprits. It helps to keep track of products you’ve been using and what’s inside them. I once tried using a shikakai-based shampoo without knowing that shakakai can be very drying to hair. Big mistake, right? Knowing what your hair may be sensitive to and what types of effects a certain product could have on your tresses are important things to know. This will aid in the process of repairing your hair.

Step 2—Stop the Wear and Tear

If you’ve just had a set back, you don’t want to risk further damage by manipulating your hair. Handling your hair gently when washing and styling goes a long way. Heat should be avoided during this time, and it’s best to use tried and true products that you know will be gentle on your hair and nourish it.

Step 3—Back to the Moisture Protein Balance

Remember that when you experience dryness and have little elasticity that your hair needs moisture. This is important because properly moisturized hair will be able to stretch and bend without breaking. If your hair is breaking and feels mushy when wet, then it’s probably weak and would need protein. If your setback has upset the balance, then get back on track by listening to your hair and what it needs.

A setback isn’t the end of the world, but it can definitely be a challenge. Sometimes in the worst cases a major trim may be needed, but at other times all you need is just the three steps listed above to set you back on the right path. Although it’s easy to dismiss, don’t forget that patience is also key, because there isn’t an overnight fix for a setback. It’ll take time for your hair to bounce back, and when it does you want it to be shiny, healthy and strong.

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Texlaxed Hair: A Healthy Hair Journey

Dena — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 04:10:48 +0000

I had the pleasure of sitting down with Ashley, a long time BHP member, for an interview about her gorgeous texlaxed hair. Ashley is an aspiring songstress and a graduate of Clark Atlanta University.

Where are you from?
I’m from Atlanta GA.

How long have you had a texturizer?
I have had a texturizer since 2005 and I love it. It has gotten me more comfortable with the way that my hair looks and feels.

What are some of the benefits of having tex-laxed hair? Any disadvantages?
Well I used to have a relaxer and I noticed a huge difference in the thickness and texture of my hair.
My hair is a lot thicker and softer. I like having a texturizer because it softens your natural wave pattern and makes it more manageable, so I can straighten my hair when I want or wear it wavy.

What are some of your favorite hair care products?
My favorite products would have to be Aubery Organics.
I love Amla oil and pretty much anything thats natural.
But I also love Aphegee, Redken and Design Essential products.

What is your hair care regimen?
Vitamins with amino acids..wash when needed, I condition with my steamer. And I try to use heat as little as possible. I keep my scalp healthy and oiled. That’s pretty much the most that I do to my hair.

What is your secret weapon for keeping your hair healthy and looking great?
Ok..I have color in my hair so my secret weapon to keep my hair from breaking is Rosa Mosquta by Aubery Organics.
Or you can simply get a hot oil treatment with rose hips or Rosa Mosquta. Its a fruit from India that works miracles on your hair as well as skin whether its dry, scarred, or cracked.

What is one piece of advice you’d give to ladies new to their hair care journey?
Take care of your hair like it is your child. It is a never ending job but it’s fun and worth it.

What is your ultimate hair care goal?
My ultimate goal is to keep my hair healthy while growing it out longer, and to keep it looking good.

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The Big Deal About Natural and Organic Hair Care

Alesha — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 04:41:56 +0000

Conditioner is bad for you.

Well, at least some are, if you’ve been checking the ingredients. As more people are becoming aware of harsh and harmful chemicals in hair products, they are turning toward new shampoos and moisturizers boasting of botanical extracts, vitamins, and organic oils. It’s no secret that natural and organic products are on the rise, so what’s exactly beneficial about them and what does that mean for your hair?

Since your hair is made of keratinized protein, it needs a proper balance of protein and moisture. Moisture gives your hair elasticity, and protein gives it strength to prevent breakage. Just think of those times when your hair felt like straw—that’s when your tresses needed moisture to get it soft and stretchy without snapping. Or think about the last time you wiped your shoulders off after noticing tiny broken hairs—this is when protein is needed to strengthen those natural bonds in your hair. Any quality hair product will help keep these two in balance and have your hair healthy, strong, and shiny.

So how does a natural product do this? Well, by blending in high quality raw ingredients and natural oils and attacking the problems of dry or weak hair. Coconut oil for example has been noted in scientific studies as being one of the few natural oils that penetrates your hair shaft and deposits the moisture deep inside. Coconut oil is also lightweight (so it doesn’t weigh down hair), and its natural lauric acid content gives it antibacterial properties. Sounds much better than mineral oil, which sits on top of your hair without delivering moisture and, when used in high doses, has been linked to cancer.

Other hair-friendly natural ingredients include silk amino acids, which act as a protein, and organic peppermint oil, which stimulates the scalp and relieves itchiness. Ayurvedic powders and oils are making their way into our shampoo and conditioner bottles as well, and they’ve been used for thousands of years to clean hair, treat the scalp, and promote growth. Whether your goal is to have healthy hair or longer hair (or both), the variety of natural plant extracts, butters, and oils available will help you along your journey.

As we see a rise in these ingredients in our hair care products, we will also see our choices in the store aisle increase and our knowledge of the dangers of certain chemicals grow. How do we separate the good from the bad? Well if your hair product contains silicones, sulfates, or parabens, then it is most likely on the “bad” list. Shampoos containing sulfates are particularly worrisome when it comes to the effect they can have on girls’ hormonal development, and parabens are not too far behind in their disruptive activity.

So the next time you’re in your local beauty supply or drug store, and you’re comparing labels, look for ingredients that will give you the protein or moisture that your hair craves without the drawbacks of traditional formulas. Going the natural and organic route can be rewarding, and it can also make a world of difference!

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Could it be your Relaxer?

Fri, 05 Feb 2010 17:30:08 +0000

There are all sorts of hair care issues. Whether it’s breakage, porosity, dryness, flaky scalp or thinning/shedding, hair problems almost always have a source, and for many, chemicals are a source that many seem to overlook when considering their hair care woes. Some complain about breakage, damage, split ends and other problems, and claim that they just wash and condition their hair and do “nothing” to it, but they fail to mention that the hair is relaxed—which is most likely the problem itself.

When one relaxes, hair problems are almost unavoidable and must be met with near-professional care. Some take very good care of their hair, and reap good results. Others just don’t do well with relaxers, but fail to admit that their hair may not do well with relaxers at all. Consumers should understand that relaxers are not “one size fit all” and not everyone should have a relaxer.

So is a relaxer for you? Consider some of these chronic hair symptoms related to relaxed hair to better assess if your relaxer is hindering your healthy hair potential. This is considering that you have done everything imaginable (protein treatments, deep conditioners, trims and professional care).

Does your hair stay dry/brittle, no matter what intensive, moisture treatment you do?
Is your hair still porous, even after ACV and other acid rinses?
Does your hair break at every touch or pass of a comb, regardless of protein treatments?
Does your shedding never end?
Do you always have split ends?
Is your hair not growing (or are you not retaining length)?

These are key indicators that, perhaps, relaxers may be the cause of your hair care issues. For some, having relaxed hair and having healthy hair can be an oxymoron, much like having healthy, color-treated hair. It is difficult to maintain chemically-treated hair, not that it is impossible. But some relaxer users who experience chronic damage from relaxers should accept when they have made a “mistake” by using a relaxer in the first place, and should come to terms with the fact that relaxers may not be the way for them.

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