Black Hair Magazine for Natural and Relaxed African American Hair - blog. » Bhp Q&A

How often should protein be used on natural hair?

Amina — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 22:57:12 +0000

Protein and Natural Hair

Jamie of Jackson, MS asks: How often should protein be used on natural hair?

Protein treatments should be used on natural hair when it is needed. Since the keratin bonds in the hair are not being broken down in order to straighten the hair (which happens with chemically relaxed hair), we naturals do not need to apply protein treatments as often as others. However, we do need to use some sort of protein in order to maintain the proper balance of protein and moisture that the hair needs.

You may opt to use a light protein such as soy milk or silk proteins that are found in many conditioners. These light proteins maintain a good balance of protein in the hair andare not damaging when used often. However, a treatment such as a Reconstructor or Keratin treatment will not need to be used as often otherwise it will cause protein overload. Note, if you are using more heat on your hair and straightening the hair often, you will need more protein than others. Excessive heat breaks down the hair over time as well.

Try using something like the ApHogee 2 minute reconstructor maybe once every 4-6 weeks or so. Assess your hair; only you will be able to truly tell if your hair is lacking protein or not (as I am not able to touch it and see it). If the hair is mushy, breaking, and your curls are limp, more than likely, the protein-moisture balance is off; go for the protein. HTH!

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Thicken relaxed hair

Dena — Wed, 30 Dec 2009 06:05:34 +0000

Thicken relaxed hair

Nyah from El Paso, TX asked: How do I thicken my limp and thin chemically processed hair?

Hi, Nyah! At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I will say again– deep conditioning is a critical component in healthy relaxed hair. I am assuming that your hair is thin due to over processing. It sounds that you may have some damage possibly due to relaxing too often or overlapping the chemical. So your first step will need to be to nurture your hair back to health. Nurture your hair by deep conditioning with protein treatments, keeping your hair moisturized, and slowly rid yourself of those pesky split or thin ends. Your hair will continue to appear thin as long as it is over processed or damaged. I am also suggesting that you get a good trimming throughout your entire head. Your hair will appear thicker and have more body. If you are not already doing so, stretch your relaxers for longer periods of time. You are practically guaranteed thickness from stretching your relaxers. After you continue this regimen on a consistent basis, I am certain that you will start to notice thicker tresses. So get started right away on your journey for healthier hair! The sooner the better!

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Damaging effects of relaxed hair

Dena — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:55:44 +0000

Damaging effects of relaxed hair

Rekeisha from Tampa, Fl asked: How do I know if my hair is damaged or not? What are the damaging effects of relaxed hair?

Rekeisha, this is a typical inquiry that many black women with relaxed hair have. There are a few red flags that should warn you that your relaxed hair is in trouble. First, split and dry ends result from chemical processing. If your ends are split, get them trimmed immediately, as they will continue to travel and cause more damage. Another warning sign is brittle hair. Over processed hair is typically dry and brittle. Brittle hair needs to be deep conditioned and nurtured in order to bring it back to life. Breakage or shedding is an obvious yet often overlooked sign of damaged hair. When you are losing more than usual, then it is time to assess your regimen. You will need a hard core protein treatment, and then a follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. This will need to take place consistently over several weeks. Take care of your relaxed hair as it is very delicate. Keep your hair moisturized and conditioned, and you can avoid the damaging effects of chemical treatments

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Sulfate free shampoos for black hair

BHP Answers — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 05:29:39 +0000

Shampoos that sulfate free for African American Hair

Jala from Jackson Mississippi asks:

I would like to know is there a list of shampoos that are free of sulfates?

Jala there are many lists on the net so here is a small list of some shampoos that might be good for your hair. This comes from this thread…sulfate free shampoos. I will post some of here on the blog.

This is a list of alkyl-sulfate-free shampoos, which means it includes products with olefin sulfonate, a potentially drying surfactant. Conversely, it excludes products with sodium laureth sulfate(SLES), a gentle sulfate. Furthermore, natural does not equal gentle, for everyone. As always, with any product, YMMV. This list was made without regard to any controversy over the “safety” of individual ingredients other than that some here are interested in avoiding parabens and silicones.

Except where noted, each product has at least one source where an exact list of ingredients can be found. If there is no live link, check under another product. From the lists, I have also color coded the products. If it says: “Salons; web beauty suppliers,” that means I’m concerned about the reliability of some of the online sources I found. If someone else can recommend one, it would be much appreciated.

Key:
Product is natural, ie. made with whole ingredients, extracts, or is a castile-type soap.
Product has one or more mild cleansers.
Product has non-sulfate cleanser that may be drying.
*No online list of exact ingredients.
# Paraben free.
! Contains silicone.

ABBA True Curls and True Shine #
~NaturallyCurly.com, GoddessWithin; health food stores.

African Black Soap #
~Nasabb; Agbanga Karite.

Alba Botanica
~Life’s Vigor, Drugstore.com; health food stores.

Alchemy #
~Adore Beauty (Australia); The Exton (Australia), Purist USA (USA); A’kin (UK).

Aleppo Soap #
~eBay.

Alpenglow Shampoo Bars #
~Alpenglow Skin Care.

Alterna*
~Salons; web beauty suppliers.

Angel Baby Shampoo and Body Wash #
~Kate’s Caring Gifts; Earth Mama Angel Baby.

Aubrey Organics #
~Vitamin Shoppe, VitaminLife, health food stores; There Must Be a Better Way (UK); Organics Australia Online (Australia).

Auromere Ayurvedic #!
~Auromere; Life’s Vigor; Organics Australia Online (Australia).

Avalon Organic Botanicals # (not all formulas paraben free)
~Life’s Vigor; health food stores; Organics Australia Online (Australia).

Azida Hemp Oil Shampoo #
~Azida; VeganEssentials.

Back to Basics Blue Lavender Color Protecting Shampoo*
~Beauty Deals, salon stores; Ulta.

Beauty Without Cruelty (non-olefin AND olefin sulfonate formulas)
~Kokopelli’s Green Market, Life’s Vigor; health food stores.

Blended Beauty Soy Cream Shampoo and Curl Cleansing Conditioner #
~NaturallyCurly CurlMart.

Brocato Cloud 9*
~Monster Hair; other beauty suppliers.

Burt’s Bees Baby Bee and Rosemary Mint Bars #
~Balm Works; health food stores.

Burt’s Bees Herbal Treatment and Grapefruit & Sugar Beet Shampoos #
~Drugstore.com, Balm Works, Walgreens & CVS; health food stores.

California Baby
~Drugstore.com, Life’s Vigor; health food stores.

Carol’s Daughter #
~Carol’s Daughter.

Chagrin Valley Bars #
~Chagrin Valley Soap and Craft.

Chemistry Store Organic Castile Liquid Soap #
~The Chemistry Store.

Cheryl’s Herbs #
~Cheryl’s Herbs.

Cornrows & Company Coconut Shampoo and Herbal Deep Cleanse #
~Cornrows & Co.

Creme of Nature
~Walgreens; Walmart.

CWS #
~All Natural Cosmetics.

Desert Essence Daily Replenishing
~House of Nutrition Online, Life’s Vigor, Drugstore.com; health food stores.

DevaCurl Low-Poo ! and No-Poo
~NaturallyCurly CurlMart.

DGJ Hair Clinic Hair Juice* – UK (Not all formulas are sulfate-free)
~Waitrose stores.

Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile #
~Drugstore.com; health food stores.

Dr. Hauschka #
~Essential Day Spa, Skin 1; health food stores.

Dr. Woods # (Castile and no-sulfate formulas).
~Dr. Woods; My VitaNet.

Druide Baby Shampoo #
~Kate’s Caring Gifts.

Druide Ecological and Organic #
~Kate’s Caring Gifts.

Duchy Originals – UK #
~Duchy Originals; UK supermarkets.

Dudu-Osum Herbal Shampoo #
~Africa Imports.

Earthly Delight #
~Willner Chemists; Whole Foods.

Ebene #
~Ebene Naturals.

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Do Cones work with Natural Hair

Amina — Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:34:22 +0000

Cones and Cooperation…what works on our hair?

Jill from Hamtramck, MI says:

I’m hearing so many things about cones and I see them in some of my hair products: dimethicones, dimethicone copolyol, etc. What are their effects on the hair? Which ones work on our hair? Thanks.

This is a popular question, the one involving “-cones” [the suffix to identify the Slicone-based chemicals]. Cones are just silicone based chemicals/ingredients that are put into hair products (and other beauty products) to add “slip” to the product or to shield the hair from things. For instance, cones are put into conditioners to allow for more slip in the product. Cones are put into serums (smooth and shine serums) to protect the hair from the elements such as heat.

There is no true right or wrong answer to this question, but it is all in how you choose to use cones that will affect your hair. You must remember to clarify with a shampoo after using most cones because they are not water soluble. Do not allow the cones to sit on your hair for extended periods of time because they will block out moisture that is key to maintaining healthy hair. I personally do not use cones, but if you are to use them you may review the effects of many of them on our bhp forum thread – cones list. Here’s another thread on cone free conditioners. HTH

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Help for Porous Hair

Amina — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 00:09:11 +0000

Help For Porous Hair

Angie from East Lansing, MI says:

My strands are super dry and no matter how many moisture treatments I put on my hair, I cannot get it to hold water! What can I do? Help!

Angie, the first thing you must do is relax. Many ladies have to deal with porous hair. Either the hair holds too much moisture and is mushy or the hair does not hold enough moisture and in result it has a chronic dry feeling to it. I have had the same issue as you and I am actually just now grasping the relationship between porosity and my hair.

The remedy for porosity issues is to find the correct balance of acid & base for your hair in order to neutralize the strands bringing it to your hair’s natural pH balance. This, in your case, may be done by doing acidic rinses on the hair. I use Apple Cider Vinegar, diluted heavily with water (1:5), as a rinse/treatment to bring the basic pH of the hair down. Many products that we tend to use on our hair do not come with a pH guide on them. However, they often tend to upset the hair follicle leaving the cuticle open, causing all of the moisture to fly right out of the hair. Try the ACV rinses once a week after shampooing and track your results. Once you notice improvement, reduce the rinses down to bi-weekly treatments and so on. I hope this helps; keep us updated!

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Must I Do the Big Chop?

Amina — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 19:39:37 +0000

Do I Have to do the Big Chop?

Melissa from Harlem, NY writes:

After seeing how beautiful natural hair can be, and noticing that I am not able to remember what texture my hair truly is, I have made the decision to go natural! There is one huge problem though, I do not want to do the Big Chop. I just got my last relaxer touch-up two weeks ago…and I know it will take a while to grow out, but do I have to get the Big Chop???

Hi Melissa,

Don’t fret, The answer is no! You do not have to get the big bad chop! I transitioned for over a year and then snipped the relaxed hair (about 2 in) off at once. Some ladies enjoy chopping all of the relaxed hair off to start fresh regardless of how big or small their TWA (Teeny Weeny Afro) is. I must say the Big Chop (and even the little chops/snips) is liberating though! I was so happy to get those last relaxed ends off of my hair.

Melissa, you can grow your natural hair out gradually and just clip an inch or so off monthly. While you are transitioning, you may wear your hair in a wide array of styles to protect the hair and grow it out successfully. Refer to this article, Transitioning to Natural. I hope this helps!

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What to do With 4B Hair?

Amina — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 23:12:13 +0000

What to do With 4B Hair?

Tamara from Oakland, CA writes in:

“I have extremely coarse 4B hair, I have no idea what to do with it. I can barely put the comb through it. Help!!!”

Tamara, don’t panic – help is on the way! First, do not think that just because you have 4B hair that it is a burden; I have the same hair “type”. Yes it may be coarse, tightly coiled, and have the slightest curl pattern, but it is a head full of fun waiting to happen! Despite all of the myths and the fact that 4b may be considered at the “bottom” of the hair chart, it actually is very versatile. I love the fact that I can stretch my coils into the most massive ‘fro that there is. I may also tame the fro into a beautiful bantu-knot out, curly fro, or twist out. There are endless abilities unique to your hair type – you just have to embrace them.

When it comes time to comb your hair, try not to manipulate your strands too much while it is dry. The best time to detangle, comb, and even style the hair is always while it is wet and/or has some type of product in it (i.e. conditioner)! Try browsing some of my earlier posts, I have always written them based on a natural’s point of view, with my texture in mind. Overall, regardless of texture, there are still basic rules in taking care of our hair…the type of hair that we have just further signifies the diversity of our people. I hope this helps! Happy Healthy Hair Growing!

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Choosing a Salon for Natural Hair

Amina — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 15:29:30 +0000

Choosing a Salon for Natural Hair

Tameka of Providence, RI says:

Dear BHP, I did a BC (Big Chop) a year ago today, and I am so proud of my journey thus far. However, I need help finding styles that work for me and I would really enjoy going to a good natural hair stylist. I have gone to regular salons, but most of the time they refuse to style my natural hair. Any tips on how to find a good natural hair salon? TIA

Tameka, I know how you feel! I do my hair by my lonesome (which is the method that I prefer and love), but every once in a while it would be nice to get pampered at the salon like I did prior to going natural. Unfortunately, many salons have stylists who are not skilled in natural hair care and they may end up doing more harm than good to our hair. In conducting your search, I recommend that you check the salon’s references. Get clients’ opinions and see where other naturals are going to get their hair styled. If you see a natural on the street and you like her hair, ask her where she got it done. Search the internet for websites, web pages, and/or web references for local salons. I wouldn’t just go through the yellow pages on this one, it’ll take a bit more work than that. If you do find a salon, talk thoroughly with the stylist before letting him/her style your hair. I all else fails, try going to youtube and following tutorials in order to DIY (Do It Yourself)! You may just be pleasantly surprised at the results. I hope this helps. Good Luck on Your Search!

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Best Pre-Poo Oil

Amina — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 01:30:18 +0000

The Best Oil for a Pre-Poo

Amber from Springfield, IL says:

I have been trying to stay on top of my weekly pre-poo treatments, but I can’t seem to choose just one oil and stick to it. I’ve tried castor oil, olive oil, and coconut oil. What is the best oil to use for a pre-poo?

The best oil to use for a pre-poo treatment depends on your preferences. You already have a leg up on things because you have tried three good oils. Personally, I use Extra Virgin Olive Oil or Extra Virgin Coconut Oil; sometimes I even use a blend of both. Honestly, I find successes with both oils. The EVOO seems to work best for major detangling, as I use it most often. The EVCO seems to work well to keep moisture in. The two of them are wonderful in pre-poo treatments. The castor oil may be a bit heavy; and I prefer using it to leave it on my scalp. However, castor oil may work for you. Some use amla oil as well for a pre-treatment. I would evaluate the results comparing each of the oils on an individual basis. The oil that works best for you will be the one to stick with!

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